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Ultimate Tool Stand

Despite the fact the the following images make this workbench look more like The Ultimate Mess than The Ultimate Tool Stand, this workbench is a great tool to have in the shop and was built using the free plans available here.  For those of you who wonder if you can build things with a circular saw - this project is proof of that.  I built this workbench primarily with my CS - including cutting all of the dados for the torsion box (using multiple cuts and chisels).  I did not have my table saw or other major power tools when I built this project.

You can read about all of the features that this workbench has on the other web site.  I will tell you a little bit about how mine differs from the plans.  First, I built mine out of baltic birch 7-ply plywood rather than MDF.  This cost a bit more, but the looks are superior to MDF (photos here don't do justice to it because at the time I took them, I wasn't taking pictures of the stand specifically), and machining the plywood is a LOT less dusty than working with MDF.  Also, plywood tends to hold screws better and is more durable in my experience.

I chose not to make slots in the top surfaces for clamping because I have a number of deep-reach clamps and would rather use them than sacrifice some of the strength of the table surface.  Since the table is only 24" deep, I can usually clamp any piece I need to by using the clamps from one side or the other.  I also don't have to give up a six foot long flat surface this way.

Another difference was in the electricals.  I used a 25ft 14Ga extension cord, which connects to a six outlet surge protected power strip that will handle 15Amps.  This strip allows me to shut off all the power at one location and also provides surge protection.  I put the cord and switch on the stand just like the plans show, with the cord wrapped around a holder on the outside and the switch plugged into it through a small hole in the wall of the cabinet.  I also used a Rousseau power switch with a shutoff bar to control my router station.  This switch is very easy to shutoff without having to look at it.  The router insert in the router table top is also by Rousseau. 

In the middle bay, you can see the extension knob sticking down from the router table, which allows me to adjust the height settings on my Bosch 1617EVSPK fixed base more easily.  The router motor is not installed in the base in this photo.

I added a small shelf in the CMS bay, which holds a boxed set of router bits.  I placed cup hooks on the wall of that same bay, which hold wrenches for the router, small measurement tools, a drill chuck key, and other handy items.  I have also added drawers to this project (not shown in these pictures).  The drawers fit into the four widest bays that you can see under the right and left sections of the table surface.  They simply run the depth of the bench and are pulled out for use.  When the bench is not against the wall, you can pull the drawers out of either side.

Another modification was to use two 1/4" t-nuts in the bottom of the "well" between the left and right sides of the top.  The various tools and top sections can then be attached with a couple of 1/4" threaded star knobs that go through the base of each piece, which means I don't have to use clamps (which would get in the way a bit) and the various components are quickly swapped out.

For the sharp-eyed among you, that is indeed a Nerf football on the left side of the bench.  The top is mostly cluttered with finishing supplies that I had just used on a project.  The gray matt in the middle bay is a non-skid carpet matt, which I use as a holder for pieces that I am routing or sanding on the workbench.  I used 4" wheels with locking casters to keep the base mobile.  I did not add the height adjustment/levelers using the eye bolts because I have a separate outfeed table for my table saw.

As you can see in the CMS bay photo, I added shelf brackets into the top corners of the rear portion of each bay.  This was probably not necessary, because this bench was awfully stable without them, but it seemed like a cheap way to add a bit more strength to the structure.  I also have not added the doors that they used in their plans.  I think I am going to convert my planer bay into a set of drawers and leave off the doors entirely.

My main recommendation to you, if you build one for yourself, is to be sure that you measure each tool that will go in the cabinet.  I bought a DeWalt 733 after I built this, and although the planer will squeeze into the lower left bay, its outfeed tables are too long to use with the top as the plans show.  You will need to modify the top and/or bay sizes to suit your tools.  It shouldn't be too difficult, however - just make the sides taller or move the dividers around as you need to for your situation.